From$199
Final investment depends on cloth selection, construction details, and shirt count. Sam will walk you through the options at your fitting.
Bespoke shirts cut from individual patterns using cloth from Thomas Mason, Albini, Canclini, Alumo, Tessitura Monti, and Soktas. Mobile measurement and fitting at your home or office across Sacramento and the Bay Area. Investment from $199.
A pattern cut to one neck, one shoulder, one arm length.
Bespoke shirts means a pattern drafted from scratch for one body, kept on file, refined across orders. Fourteen or more measurements are taken at the first appointment: neck, chest, waist, hip, shoulder point to shoulder point, full back, half back, sleeve length to elbow and to cuff, bicep, forearm, wrist, cuff height, yoke depth. The pattern is drafted to those numbers and to no one else's.
Made-to-measure adjusts an existing master pattern. Off-the-rack fits an imaginary average body that almost no real man matches. Both have a place in the wardrobe for some clients. Bespoke is the path for the man who has tried every shirt brand sold in his city and accepted that nothing actually fits.
Shirts are the wardrobe foundation. The working executive wears a shirt on five days out of seven, and on the days he does not wear a suit jacket the shirt is the entire visible wardrobe. Fit is more visible on a shirt than on any other garment. The collar that gaps, the shoulder seam that has slipped to the upper arm, the cuff that rides over the wristbone. Those flaws stay in every photograph.
Egyptian Giza, Sea Island, Italian poplin and Swiss linen.
Egyptian Giza 45 cotton at 100/2 yarn count is the primary business-shirt recommendation: the finest extra-long-staple cotton grown anywhere, woven in tightly controlled mills, with a hand and drape no volume cotton matches. Egyptian Giza 87 sits one tier down in price without losing the long-staple character. Sea Island cotton (the historical reference standard for shirting, grown on small islands off the southern Atlantic coast) is reserved for the rarest commissions. Italian poplin and oxford from Albini and Thomas Mason cover the everyday business range. Swiss voile, batiste, and linen from Alumo cover the summer wardrobe.
Construction details that separate a bespoke shirt from a good off-the-rack one: single-needle stitching down side seams (slower, cleaner, the only way the seam allowance lies flat for a decade), French seams on the inside (no exposed raw edges anywhere), genuine mother-of-pearl buttons with hand-shanked button shanks, hand-finished buttonholes on dress and formal shirts, mitered cuffs sewn with the cloth pattern matched at the seam.
Six houses, three centuries of weaving.
Crowned Legacy bespoke shirts are cut from cloth woven by the six houses below. Mill character drives the pairing. English heritage weights for board-room shirting, Italian softness for warmer-weather pieces, Swiss vertically-integrated production for the most consistent business cottons.
Thomas Mason
Founded 1796 · Lancashire, England
Acquired by Italy's Albini Group in 1992. Thomas Mason's Silverline and Goldline poplins are the benchmark for English-style shirting weight and pattern. Exclusive supplier to Turnbull & Asser, shirtmaker to the British royal family, since 1936.
Albini Group
Founded 1876 · Albino, Bergamo, Italy
Five generations of family weaving. Europe's largest shirting producer. Italian-style shirtings with subtle patterns and lighter cloths than the English heritage of Thomas Mason. Same family ownership through five generations.
Canclini
Lake Como, Italy
The Italian classic. Twills, herringbones, poplins, and flannels. Particularly strong on cotton-linen blends for warm-weather business shirting.
Alumo
Switzerland
Switzerland's premier shirting house. Vertically integrated, weaving everything itself, the only major shirting mill outside Albini's family with that level of in-house production. Classic collections favored for business shirting.
Tessitura Monti
Italy
One of the three great Italian shirting houses, alongside Canclini and Albini. Particularly known for refined 100% cotton bases at higher yarn counts (120/2 and above).
Soktas
Turkey
Major Turkish cotton specialist with 300,000+ fabric variations across the catalogue. Strong on lighter weight cotton bases and silk-cotton blends for warm-weather shirting.
"I've fit hundreds of clients in Egyptian cotton from both Albini and Thomas Mason. Both make exceptional cloth, and I refuse to pick a favorite. Thomas Mason's Silverline poplin gives me the slightly more substantial hand for business shirting. Albini's Albiate ranges feel right for warmer weather and softer tonal pieces. The choice depends on how you'll wear the shirt."
Collars, cuffs, plackets. The small architecture.
Collar styles set the register of the shirt. A spread collar is the modern default for the dress shirt. A cutaway opens further and accommodates a wider tie knot. A button-down belongs on the casual Oxford or chambray. A club collar (rounded points) reads vintage and suits a heritage palette. A tab collar holds the tie knot upright and reads sharper for the executive who wants to commit fully to the tied look.
Cuff styles run from the single-button barrel (a workhorse for everyday dress shirts) to the two-button mitered barrel (a cleaner line at the wrist) to the French double cuff (formal, pairs with cufflinks, traditional with a tuxedo or the senior business outfit). A convertible cuff allows either button or cufflink wear, which is useful for the man who travels and prefers a single shirt that goes in either direction.
Plackets, pockets, and finish details follow. A French front (no placket) reads cleaner and dressier; a placket front reads more traditional and slightly more casual. A chest pocket is welcomed on casual and business shirts and traditionally avoided on dress shirts worn under a jacket. Monograms (cuff, chest, placket) are included.
Four to eight weeks, two appointments at your location.
The first appointment is at your home or office. The cloth library is opened on a flat surface, and selections are made in the room's own light. Fourteen-plus measurements are taken. Collars and cuffs are chosen with a sample collection on hand to feel and try. The monogram, if requested, is specified.
Mobile shirt fittings happen across Sacramento, Roseville, Folsom, Granite Bay, El Dorado Hills, Davis, and into the Bay Area, including San Francisco, Palo Alto, Mountain View, and the Peninsula. Sam comes to you. You don't leave the house or office.
A basted shirt (half-sewn, the seams open, the collar tacked on but not finished) comes back two to three weeks later for the first fitting. The shirt is fitted on the body, walked through, sleeved in a jacket, and adjustments are marked on the basted garment in chalk and pin. The pattern is corrected against the marked basting and the full shirt order is then constructed.
Final delivery happens at your location at the end of the four to eight week window. The Perfect Fit Guarantee covers any subsequent adjustment. The pattern stays on file for the next order, which arrives in a fraction of the time.
Pricing reflects cloth and construction details.
Every commission includes the Perfect Fit Guarantee for the life of the shirt.
The man who wears a shirt five days out of seven.
The executive whose calendar includes a shirt and tie three or more days a week. The man with a hard-to-fit body: long arms, broad shoulders, slim waist, full chest, athletic build, asymmetric posture, anything outside the off-the-rack averages. The professional who has tried every shirt brand sold in his city and accepted that nothing actually fits. The first-time bespoke buyer exploring the category at the most accessible entry point in the catalogue.
Bespoke shirts pair naturally with the made-to-measure suit a custom shirt finishes, and are the right next move for the client who moves toward full bespoke tailoring, because the shirt and the suit are seen together every day. Many clients also commission trousers to pair beneath so the lower half of the wardrobe matches the register of the shirts.
What clients ask before they commission shirts.
- How many bespoke shirts make a starting wardrobe?
- Most clients start with six to twelve shirts in the first commission. The reasoning is practical: pattern development is real work, and amortising it across a single shirt makes the per-piece cost feel high. Across six shirts the pattern cost disappears into the ordinary cycle of laundry, wear, and rotation. A typical executive wardrobe settles at twelve to eighteen dress shirts, three to six casual shirts, and a small number of formal shirts paired with the tuxedo. Subsequent orders work from the existing pattern and ship in a fraction of the time.
- What is the difference between bespoke shirts and made-to-measure shirts?
- Bespoke shirts are cut from a pattern drafted to your body alone, with a paper block kept on file and refined across orders. Made-to-measure shirts adjust an existing pattern to your measurements, which gets close to a perfect fit faster and at lower cost but cannot solve unusual proportions: long arms, broad shoulders, slim waist, full chest, asymmetrical posture. Both produce a meaningfully better shirt than off-the-rack. Bespoke is the right path for the man whose body has spent two decades fighting the standard size grid.
- Are monograms standard on bespoke shirts?
- Standard, never required. The traditional placements are a small monogram on the cuff, the chest pocket (if pocket is specified), or the placket below the third button. Two letters or three. Tone-on-tone for the discreet read, contrast for the statement read. Monograms are included in the bespoke commission at no additional cost, and are equally well-received as a quiet personalisation or as a clear claim of ownership.
- What is the right collar style for my face shape?
- A general guide: a wider face usually balances best with a higher, narrower collar (a tall point or modified spread). A narrower face balances best with a wider spread or cutaway, which broadens the visual line under the chin. A rounder face benefits from longer collar points; an angular face benefits from shorter, softer ones. The best test is the basted fitting. Sam will bring three collar styles to the second appointment and let the mirror decide.
- How should bespoke shirts be cared for to preserve them?
- Wash on a gentle cycle in cold water, never with bleach. Hang to dry, or tumble on the lowest heat for ten minutes and then hang. Press while still slightly damp, with the iron at the cotton setting and steam moderate. Avoid commercial laundries that press with industrial mangles. Those will burn out the cuffs and collar within a year. A well-cared-for bespoke cotton shirt lasts five to eight years of regular weekly wear, often longer.
Reserve the first fitting.
Bespoke shirts begin with a single appointment at your home or office. Forty-five minutes. Cloth library, measuring tape, sample collars and cuffs. Everything else follows.
Reserve a fittingBy Appointment Only · Sacramento + Bay Area