When to choose Dormeuil
A French house, woven in England. The price buys cloth character, not a finer number.
Read the articleMill registers, fiber depth, and the cloth library at workroom register .
Mill spotlights, fiber sourcing, and the working cloth library across Italian and British heritage. Field notes from the bunches Sam reaches for most often.
Field notes in cloth.
When to choose Lanificio Cerruti
Gruppo Piacenza owns both mills. The price gap is not the badge. It is the fiber.
Read the articleWhen to choose Fratelli Piacenza
The Pollone house of noble fibers since 1733, and since 2022 the family group behind two of the twelve mills. Cashmere depth, vicuna partnerships, thistle finishing.
Read the articleWhen to choose Vitale Barberis Canonico
The Biella mill for the working wardrobe. Perennial for the daily rotation, flannel for winter, Revenge for the dressier commission. Made to measure from $999.
Read the articleHolland and Sherry: the cloth for a suit that has to last
Holland and Sherry is the British worsted to choose when you want a suit that holds its shape and takes daily wear for years. When it is, and is not, the right call.
Read the articleErmenegildo Zegna for the boardroom, a guide to the mill that built modern executive wardrobes
Ermenegildo Zegna is the Italian cloth maker and fashion house founded 1910 in Trivero, Biella. Trofeo anchors the year round executive worsted; 12 Mile sits at the super fine end; Cool Effect carries California summer. Made to measure in Zegna cloth starts at $3,000, and bespoke construction starts at $5,000.
Read the articleThe Loro Piana commission, what to know before you choose Super 150s
Loro Piana is the Italian cloth maker founded 1924 in Quarona, Piedmont. Tasmanian Super 150s anchors the four season Italian register; Wish Super 170s sits a step finer; vicuna and baby cashmere are priced by quote. Commissions in Loro Piana cloth start at $3,000 at the made to measure tier and $5,000 at the bespoke tier.
Read the article